Just as important as a properly tuned guitar is a properly tuned drum kit.  Un-tuned drums often sound somewhat flat and out of pitch.  Tuning your drum kit is essential in getting the best sound and maximum life out of your drum heads. This post will provide the basics for tuning your drums in order to find the sound you’re looking for. Also, properly tuned drum heads not only sound better but also add to head life. One thing to remember is that there is no one set of parameters for tuning a drum – you must play around and experiment a bit to get the pitch and sound that’s right for you.

Depending on whether your style of drumming is rock, jazz or county there are many different heads for each.  You might want to tryout several different types of drum heads before you buy new heads.  Learning the mechanics of a drum is also a very good idea.

When replacing drum heads on your toms, first loosen and remove tension lugs holding the existing skin on both the top and bottom for the drum.  Once the heads have been removed, use a soft dry rag to wipe off the rim and new heads.  This will help insure that the head sits evenly on the rim.  Of course, make sure the head size is correct for the drum shell. We will start with the resonant skin; this is the bottom skin of the drum.  Place the head on the drum shell and reattach the tension lugs and hand tighten only.  The next step often inadvertently missed is to stretch the head.  This is very important!  To accomplish this task take your fist and press down on the middle of the skin.  Stretching the drum head keeps the head from going out of tune easily.  It is normal to hear a little cracking sound when stretching the head.  As a rule you should never be able to break a skin by pressing on it.  If you do then it probably was defective and should be returned.  Make sure the all lugs are still hand tight after stretching the head.

Now tune the drum by using the drum key.  When tightening the tension lugs on a drum never go around the drum in a circle; you always want to move in more of a star – like pattern (see diagram) similar to lug nuts on a tire or bolts on a motor manifold.  Turn each lug the same amount in alphabetical order.  If you turn lug “A” 1 ½ turns then turn all other lugs the same amount following the correct tuning pattern. You will want to tune each lug until they are all snug.

After the drum head is snug you will now “tune” the drum.  Using a drumstick, tap the head between 1 and 2 inches from any lug.  If it’s the sound you’re looking for, tap and tune each of the other lugs until you achieve the same sound.  Remember you want to tune your drums by tapping opposite lugs, tapping the same distance from each lug.  It is important you make sure every lug has the same sound or the whole drum will sound out of pitch.  The pitch and sound you’re looking for will depend on the type of music you are going to be playing.

Follow the same tuning method when tuning the batter head; the head you hit.  You can try tuning your batter head a few tones higher than your resonant skin to get a better sound from your drum.  Whether you’re tuning a bass, snare or tom you can use this method for each.  When tuning a snare drum make sure the snare is in the off position.

I hope you find this post informative.  Remember, practice every day!

PEACE!!

When stringing a 12-string guitar I suggest using a light-gauge string set due to the tremendous amount of tension exerted on the neck by the 12 strings.

In standard 12-string tuning, the second string in each pair is tuned to the same pitches, E, A, D, G, B, E, and using the same methods as the six-string guitar described in the previous post.

For the E, A, D, and G strings, the first smaller string in each pair is tuned to the same note, but an octave higher in pitch than its partner. For the B and E strings, the first string in each pair is tuned in unison (exactly the same pitch) with its partner string.

Some players may find it difficult to press the strings down on a 12-string.  This is due to the high tension caused by the extra strings. This tension can be reduced by choosing to tune the entire guitar to a lower relative pitch, such as E-flat or D.  Using a capo on the first or second fret will bring it back up to standard pitch.

The guitar will certainly be easier to play, and the reduced tension will put less stress on the neck over time, but bear in mind that it will also sacrifice a bit of the tone projection of the instrument.

Higher end 12-string guitars often feature a double truss rod system for superior strength and improved accuracy with the adjustments.  Remember a 12-string guitar tuned at standard pitch should be monitored regularly for possible truss rod adjustment.  Ignoring a guitar in need of an adjustment may cause permanent problems over time.

Practice every day!

PEACE!!

Tuning a Six-String Guitar

Nothing sounds worse than an out-of-tune guitar.  Whether you have an acoustic, electric or an acoustic guitar with a pickup, there are different methods for tuning your guitar.   If you have an electric or an acoustic with a pickup, I recommend using an electronic chromatic guitar tuner. If you don’t have one, you might want to purchase one online or at a local music store.   An electronic guitar tuner will make tuning your guitar dramatically simpler.

The first thing to remember when tuning any guitar is always tune from below pitch up to the correct pitch.  This will eliminate string slack from the machine head and help prevent the possibility of string slippage and tone changes when playing.  Guitar strings should be tuned starting with the bass E string or the thickest to the thinnest: E, A, D, G, B, E.

If tuning using an electronic tuner with your electric or electric/acoustic guitar, just plug in your instrument, crank the volume and tune from low to high as called out on the tuner: E, A, D, G, B, E.

When tuning your acoustic guitar, you will need to use the A-440 reference tone from your tuner, a guitar pitch pipe, an A-440 tuning fork or another pitch reference source.

Using one of these tone references, tune the A string or second string to pitch.  Now depress the A string at the fifth fret to produce a D and then tune the D string to that same pitch.

Next, depress the D string at the fifth fret to produce a G, and tune the G string until the pitches match.

Then depress the G string at the fourth fret to produce a B, and tune the B string until the two pitches match.

Finally, depress the B string at the fifth fret to produce an E and tune the E string (the thinnest string) until the two pitches match.

Now go back and tune the bass E (the thickest string) until it matches the pitch of the fifth fret of the A string.

Once completed your guitar should sound great; if not you might need to repeat this process.

Practice every day!

PEACE!!

Like an acoustic guitar, proper care of your electric guitar is just as important.  Extremes in environmental conditions can play havoc on your instrument, whether it’s hot, cold, humid or arid.  Changes in these conditions cannot only harm the appearance of your guitar in the form of finish cracks; it can also compromise the original physical configuration.

TEMPERATURE

First, let’s look at extreme temperatures and the effects on your guitar.  Extreme heat can loosen glue joints and warp the neck, whereas extreme cold can cause the finish to crack and split.  So, rule number one:

Do not expose your guitar to extreme temperature conditions.  Don’t leave your guitar in the car on a hot day or a cold day.  Keep it out of direct sunlight on a hot day and never expose your guitar to a heat source like a space heater or furnace.  Remember, when bringing your guitar from cold to warm, leave it in the case. You want the temperature change to be slow to avoid possible finish or wood cracking.

HUMIDITY

Just as harmful to an electric guitar as extreme temperature changes in humidity.  Humidity can play a destructive role, causing wood to swell and cracking the finish.  When your guitar is exposed to high humidity the wooden parts absorb moisture in the air and expand, whereas the finish tends not to absorb the same moisture.  The force of the expanding wood against the finish can result in cracking and/or splitting.   The inverse is true for low humidity.  The wooden parts dry out and shrink, causing the finish to crack since it does not move as the wood shrinks.   The most ideal humidity recommended by most guitar techs is 50% +/-5%.  Some will suggest you place a humidifier inside your guitar case.  These humidifiers function similar to those used in cigar humidors.

One sign that your guitar is too dry is sharp fret edges.  This condition occurs when the neck of the guitar and fretboard dry out.  As the neck dries and shrinks the frets tend to extend past the fretboard.  Over time this can make the guitar somewhat uncomfortable to play.

Another effect that neck warping has due to exposure to overly dry conditions is low action.  You may notice the action has changed when playing your guitar.  This can be corrected by adjusting the truss rod.  You will want to slowly humidify your instrument before making any truss rod adjustments.

Remember to keep your instrument dry!

Practice every day!

PEACE!!

In this post I will walk you through the steps in making adjustments to the neck of your guitar.  In the last post we identified some of the causes of guitar buzz, one of which was the neck alignment causing the strings to vibrate on lower frets of the guitar.   Making this adjustment is not too difficult, but if you don’t feel comfortable making it yourself you can have a guitar tech perform it for you.

To perform this adjustment you will need the following items:

A Capo

Small Screwdriver

.008” Feeler Gauge

The Truss Rod Adjustment Wrench that came with your Guitar

NOTE:  Before you begin, make sure your guitar is tuned to pitch.

First locate the truss rod nut.  On most acoustic guitars the nut can be found just inside the top of the sound hole.  On most electric guitars the truss nut is usually found at the top of the neck and/or under a cover plate. If your guitar has a cover plate, remove it using a small screwdriver.  There are typically three screws holding it in place.  Take care not to drop or lose any of the screws.

Next you will want to attach the capo across the first fret and the adjustment wrench to the truss rod nut.

With the capo and wrench in place, compress the last fret of the bass E string.

Slide the .008” feeler gauge under the E string between the string and the eighth fret.

If the neck is too “straight” the feeler gauge will move the string when passed between it and the fret.  In this case we will need to apply more bow to the neck.  This is accomplished by turning the adjustment wrench toward the treble side of the neck.  Start with about a quarter turn and then recheck the string clearance with the feeler gauge.  Continue to make small adjustments until the feeler gauge fits between the string and the fret without moving the string but still touching it.

If the neck is too “bowed” the string will not touch the gauge when placed between it and the same eighth fret.  You will probably know when you need to make this adjustment if your guitar becomes hard to play because the strings are too far from the fret board.  To correct this condition, turn the adjustment wrench toward the bass side of the neck.  Start with about a quarter turn and then recheck the string clearance with the feeler gauge.  Continue to make small adjustments until the feeler gauge fits between the string and the fret without moving the string but still touching it.

Once the adjustment is completed remove the wrench, reattach the cover plate and remove the capo.

Tune the guitar to pitch and you should have a great sounding easy to play guitar.

Practice every day!

PEACE!!

Many things buzz – bees buzz, saws buzz, mosquito’s buzz, flies buzz and buzzers buzz.  The one thing that should never buzz is your guitar.  Unless it’s a deliberate effect, a buzzing guitar can be a real nuisance.  There are several things to check for if you hear a buzzing sound in your acoustic guitar:

First, using an allen wrench give the truss rod nut about a quarter turn in each direction to make sure the truss rod isn’t loose or broken.  The truss rod nut can be located either just inside the sound hole or under a plate on the pegbox at the top of the neck.  A sharp rap on the neck with your knuckles can determine if the truss rod is loose.

The neck of the guitar, if not adjusted properly can cause buzz.  If the neck is too straight when the strings are compressed they will in many cases vibrate on the lower frets.  This produces a very unpleasant sound when the guitar is picked or strummed.  This can be corrected by adjusting the truss rod.  I will explain how to  adjust the  truss rod in a future post.

Check to make sure that the truss rod cover plate itself isn’t loose.

Make sure that the pick guard is not loose or rattling.  This is true for any less expensive made guitars that may have plastic parts glued to the soundboard or around the sound hole.

Economy type machine heads can cause buzzing when there castings separate.

If the strings are laying on the soundboard behind the bridge, either tie them up or trim them.  Doing do can eliminate a potential cause of buzz.

Pick-up wires inside the guitar body riding against the soundboard, back or sides can also be a cause of buzz.   This inspection is done best when the strings have been removed.  You will also need a flashlight and a telescoping inspection mirror when performing this check.  It is also a good idea to take this opportunity to remove any foreign loose objects and dust balls that sometimes find their way into the body of your guitar.

Check for any loose braces, a loose bridge plate and cracks or separations in laminated components.  You might wish to have a guitar tech check for any of these conditions.  Your local music store probably can provide this service.

A loose fret or frets can also cause buzzing.

Check for any loose hardware like guitar strap buttons.

Sometimes in extremely dry conditions buzzing can occur, but will be alleviated once the humidity increases.

Practice every day!

PEACE!!

To maximize the life of your guitar, it is important to perform proper maintenance on it regularly.  Your guitar is like your dog; it is your best friend, so treat like it is.  Here are a few maintenance tips you need to follow:

When you’re not playing it, always keep your guitar in its case.  I learned this lesson the hard way.  I had a guitar slide off its stand and the neck broke from the body.  This will also help protect the instrument from heat and humidity.

When in its case, make sure the case is latched or zipped.  This will prevent your guitar from falling out if you or someone else picks it up.

Wash your hands before playing your guitar if possible, this will help keep dirt and oil to a minimum.   To minimize fingerboard wear, keep finger nails trimmed on your left hand if you play right handed (right hand if you play left handed).

Wipe the strings and the finish of the guitar with a soft clean cloth after you have finished playing to remove any dirt and oils.

Change your strings often.  A new set of strings can make your guitar come alive.  Most guitar players do not change their strings as often as they should.  Some hard core musicians’ change their strings before every gig; this helps maintain a richer tone.  If you play every day or several times a week, then I recommend changing your strings once a month or when you start to notice deterioration in tone quality.

When changing your strings change one string at a time instead of all at once.  This will subject the neck to less potential changes in tension.

Always clean the fingerboard each time you change your strings; this will remove any dirt or oil that has accumulated.

Tuning gears (machine heads) should be inspected for any loose parts and proper operation.  Open tuners should be oiled by applying a drop of light machine oil to the bearing surface.  This should be done about twice a year.

Do not expose your guitar to extreme temperatures for any length of time.  If at all possible avoid rapid temperature changes.  When bringing your guitar from cold to warm, leave it in the case. You want the temperature change to be slow to avoid possible finish or wood cracking.

Like temperature, humidity can have an adverse effect on the guitar’s sound box and neck dimensions.   In low humidity, the neck will move forward.  The opposite will occur under more humid conditions.  With this said, the height of your strings will be affected.    To maintain the desired action you may need to adjust the truss rod.  You might want to have a guitar tech make this adjustment for you if you’re not comfortable doing it on your own.

Never let your instrument get wet!

Practice every day!

PEACE!